Finally managed to tear myself away from Goa....... The 7 hour train journey to Hospet was surprisingly pleasant. Getting a tuk tuk to Hampi which should have been relatively straightforward was more of an ordeal than the train journey! The Festival of Lord Shiva's birthday was causing chaos on the roads. We finally made it to the other side of the river. Waiting in line to fill in police paperwork a stampede of cows and water buffalo charged up the narrow rocky road. Finally I arrive at Shanthi bungalows, gleefully grabbing my key - instantly soothed by the breathtaking scenery which wraps around the skyline like a pre-historic film set for a blockbuster dinosaur movie. Giant 'flintstone' style stone boulders lie on the horizon, a gentle river runs through, paddy fields of acid green brighten the dusky sky. The only sound is a gregarious chorus of frogs. Beautiful.
The resident Hampi Elephant taking her bath is a daily spectacle! This spot of the river is a hive of bathing activity for everyone. Women graciously bathe fully clothed in rainbow coloured saris, whilst men horse around with their friends more scantily clad, looking on curiously at the backpackers crossing the river by boat. You sense the fragility of the balance between locals who live in Hampi in the midst of this precious world heritage site and the growing tourist trade. For now it is a beguiling and comfortable mix, the atmosphere is friendly, otherwordly, blessed and peaceful. I hope it will stay that way......
By the 16th Century Hampi had grown into one of the most prolific hindu empires of all time. There is a mention of it in the Hindu scriptures Ramayana as the realm of the monkey gods, and monkies you will find in abundance, cheekily lounging over the ruins, with graceful aplomb. Exploring the sites by bicycle is the best way to go - cycling through this dreamy landscape is like being transported to another world, and the sheer size and stunning beauty of the sites is like nothing I have ever seen before. The apparent lack of other tourists is also a joy. I chuckle to myself as I think of Stone Henge with its pedantic fence, there are no such restrictions here! The sophistication and romanticism of the architectural detail is amazing. Sculptural renditions of Vijayanagar art abound, intricate stone carvings of hindu gods seem as alive today as they were hundreds of years ago. My favourite was the Queen's bath - by no means the most impressive of the sites but the most charming, it was allegedly used as a pleasure dome for the King and his wives. A secretive and intimate building, a series of balconies are set around an open air pool. The domed roof of the veranda is bewitching, carved in a lotus shape - each section is decorated with a different theme. What a sensual aqua fantasy this must have have been in its heyday!
The resident Hampi Elephant taking her bath is a daily spectacle! This spot of the river is a hive of bathing activity for everyone. Women graciously bathe fully clothed in rainbow coloured saris, whilst men horse around with their friends more scantily clad, looking on curiously at the backpackers crossing the river by boat. You sense the fragility of the balance between locals who live in Hampi in the midst of this precious world heritage site and the growing tourist trade. For now it is a beguiling and comfortable mix, the atmosphere is friendly, otherwordly, blessed and peaceful. I hope it will stay that way......
By the 16th Century Hampi had grown into one of the most prolific hindu empires of all time. There is a mention of it in the Hindu scriptures Ramayana as the realm of the monkey gods, and monkies you will find in abundance, cheekily lounging over the ruins, with graceful aplomb. Exploring the sites by bicycle is the best way to go - cycling through this dreamy landscape is like being transported to another world, and the sheer size and stunning beauty of the sites is like nothing I have ever seen before. The apparent lack of other tourists is also a joy. I chuckle to myself as I think of Stone Henge with its pedantic fence, there are no such restrictions here! The sophistication and romanticism of the architectural detail is amazing. Sculptural renditions of Vijayanagar art abound, intricate stone carvings of hindu gods seem as alive today as they were hundreds of years ago. My favourite was the Queen's bath - by no means the most impressive of the sites but the most charming, it was allegedly used as a pleasure dome for the King and his wives. A secretive and intimate building, a series of balconies are set around an open air pool. The domed roof of the veranda is bewitching, carved in a lotus shape - each section is decorated with a different theme. What a sensual aqua fantasy this must have have been in its heyday!
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